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Vintage 1960s Hot Pink Silk Shantung Coat & Beaded Gown by <i>Malcom Starr</i>
Order #D2616
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Vintage 1960s Hot Pink Silk Shantung Coat & Beaded Gown by Malcom Starr
I couldn’t get the intensity of the pink in the photos. It really is hot, shocking pink. This evening set has a full-length double-breasted coat with beaded collar pink stain lining, big covered buttons, bound buttons holes and back 1/2 belt to snug it in. The matching gown is sleeveless, with an Empire waist, fitted torso and full length flared skirt. The entire bodice is beaded in 3-D bugle bead paisley shapes with glass beads and rhinestones accents.  The dress is fully lined as well. And has a handset back metal zipper. This is substantial set.  Malcom Starr was a good label and made very high-quality garments. 

Label: Both pieces labeled: Malcom Starr Made in Hong Kong British Crown Colony 

Size: Labeled a 14. Coat: Bust: 39”, Waist: 32”, Hips: 42”, Shoulders: 16”, Sleeves: 22.25”, CB Neck to waist: 16”, to Hem: 58”, Hem Sweep: 76”.
Dress: Bust: 38”, Waist: 30”, Hips: 39”, Shoulder to Waist: approx.16”, to Hem: 58”, Hem Sweep: 62.”
Condition: Coat: An area of light soiling on the coat sleeve as shown, and some soil along hem edge. more on inside. Dress – excellent, hemmed up ½”.   

Price: $275
Vintage 1950s Sequined Black Crepe Evening Gown and Capelet by Lucien Lelong
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Vintage  Late 1940s - Early 1950s Sequined Black Crepe Evening Gown and Capelet by Lucien Lelong SZ S

This stunning dress and capelet come from the estate of Heidi Scharf, a German actress and dancer, she starred in a several films and was profiled in 1946 in Life Magazine, dancing in the war rubble in Germany. Heidi married John Pommer, a production manager, etc. in the film and TV business - he died in 2014 at age 98. His father was Eric Pommer, a film producer and big deal in German film from WWI - WWII, who spent quite a bit of time in Paris, and then here in the States once he got his family out of Germany. He produced Marlene Dietrich in the Blue Angel, discovered Maureen O'Hara, that sort of thing. There is a very extensive bio on IMdb written by his son John.
So, here's the story: once Heidi married John Pommer in 1950, Eric Pommer would buy clothing for her in Paris and bring it back. This is one of her dresses. It has a Lucien Lelong label. You will note the Made in France on the label. Lelong did have a r-t-w- line and his house closed somewhere between 1948 – 1952. He died in 1958. With the marriage in 1950 and the house closing by 1952, I think we have a good date on this dress. 
Al l that said, it’s a slim fitted evening dress with sequins in graded sizes hand sewn throughout. The sequins become much denser at the side and cover the back. The capelet is covered as well. The dress has a light structure inside, with a wide petersham waist bad. There are shaped panels on at the side backs seams and godets at the back hem for flare. There is a slight train, but the mannequin is too tall to have it show properly. The capelet is lined in chiffon.   

Construction: the sequins are hand sewn. The cut seam allowances are caught down by this, as the sequins were sewn on after the dress was assembled, and cross the seams to flow uninterrupted around the garments. Some of the seam allowances were hand whipped. The capelet sequins are sewn through the silk chiffon lining as well, except in one area, where I think it means there was a change of technique along the way.  Side metal Talon zipper to close, which makes me this this was R-T-W and finished in the USA after import.

Label: in capelet collar: Lucien Lelong 16 Avenue Matignon Paris Made in France Modele Depose

Size: Capelet: Neck: 18”, CB Length: 15”. 
Dress:Bust: 36”, Waist: 28”, Hips: 40”, Shoulder to Waist: 15”, Shoulder to Hem Front: 55” Back: 57”, Hem Sweep: 102”.

Condition: Sturdy and warble, no stains or holes. There are a few missing sequins, and a lot of cut threads. The dress has been altered to fit at the straps and armholes, with a tuck and a dart per side. The finishing binding was left alone so if you wish to take these out, there are sequins on the interior to sew on.
There are darts taken in the side backs with one row of hand sewing, hand whipped edges, and one row of machine sewing. There are 4 layers here as shown. And an odd panel effect on the outside. The dress already has wide shoulders for its size, I can't imagine how wide this would be across the upper back with these removed, and have no idea what it would do the exterior lines.

Price: $1695
1970 Vintage Abstract Printed Silk Twill Dress by B.H. Wragge Sz S/M

Order #D2546
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1970 Vintage Abstract Printed Silk Twill Dress by B.H. Wragge Sz S/M

I adore that Wragge actually dated their label. This 1970 dress is a marvelous , bold print in orange, yellow, aqua, rose and fuchsia. The style is simple - open shirt style collar, Ύ flare sleeves and tent silhouette. This is beautifully made, with a silk lining, handset metal zipper and hand sewn hem. And side pockets, too! Wragge made good quality ready to wear for the younger American market. And did it well.

Label: BH Wragge 70

Size: Bust: 36”, Waist: 34”, Hips: 40”, Shoulders: 15”, Sleeves: 20”,  CB Neck to Hem: 38.5”, Sweep: 50”.

Condition: Excellent but for one stain  as shown at left side back low waist.

Price: $100
1950s Navy Blue Silk Satin Vintage Dress by Maurice Rentner SZ M

Order #MB574
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1950s Navy Blue Silk Satin Vintage Dress by Maurice Rentner SZ M

For those of you who aren’t familiar with the Maurice Rentner label,Rentner was a respected manufacturer of quality women’s wear from the 1920s until his death in 1958. According to the VFG Label Resource,Wilson Folmar was one of the designers there. After 1958, Bill Blass designed for the label until he bought the company in 1967.
This dress is likely pre 1958, as Blass is not credited on the label. It’s a rich navy silk satin,with bateau neckline, pleated skirt, shaped matching belt, and wonderful deep draped sleeve cuffs. The cuffs are shaped by cartridge pleats at the underarm sleeve seam. A great detail, done with subtlety. Side metal zipper to close.

Labels: Maurice Rentner Original on dress and belt, ILGWU 1955 - 62.

Size: Labeled a 14. Bust: 40”, Waist: 30”, Hips: 44”, Shoulders: approx. 16”, Shoulder to Waist: 15.5”, Waist to Hem: 27”, Hem Sweep: 42"

Condition: Excellent, clean, no stains. One tiny hole on the right cuff as shown, hem has been raised 1“.

Price: $165